This woman burns for her message – and beautiful fashion that we wear without a guilty conscience: Mirjam Smend is a fashion journalist, mother, blogger – and founder of the communication platform Greenstyle. She organises trade fairs (in Salzburg currently from 24 to 26 March) and conferences, informs and connects people. And she wants to arouse enthusiasm. For sustainable consumption and brands that are as fair as they are cool. We confronted the Munich native with five myths about sustainable fashion:
1. Sustainable fashion looks insanely eco
Mirjam Smend laughs and nods. “That was indeed the case – in the past,” she says. Simple is also okay, then as now, because everything has its target group. But she vehemently denies that sustainable fashion today is exclusively grey, natural white or beige. She knows enough grandiose counter-examples. “Slow fashion and fair fashion work with modern, exciting cuts and bright colours. Furthermore, she says: “How eco can something look that has long been prominently featured in Vogue and Elle…?”
She’s got a point there.
In the past five years, there has been a huge shift towards “I can’t visually distinguish sustainable fashion from conventional”. Of course, there are enough eco-friendly, smart trend pieces that are really cool and hip in design.
2. Fair Fashion is expensive
“Of course it is more expensive than fast fashion,” says Mirjam Smend. This is because everyone in the production process is paid fairly and ecological concepts are taken into account. Water (often a rare commodity in the producing countries) that is polluted by dyeing is recycled and kept in the cycle. “When you do that, it just costs.”
“Fair fashion is not too expensive – conventional clothes are just too cheap.”
Mirjam Smend, Greenstyle-Founder and Fashion JOurnalist
Anyone who plans to go shopping in the future with a targeted eye on good working conditions for seamstresses and co. should in any case not empty their own wardrobe in advance. Smend: “The most sustainable item is the one you already have.” Second-hand pieces are the most ideal, because they have already been produced. They are also much cheaper.
The fashion journalist also recommends swapping pieces – either on platforms or at local clothes swap parties. “Don’t throw away what you already have at home,” she says.
Because many people don’t know exactly what’s in their wardrobes, another tip is to “shop your own wardrobe”. This means: “Take your time, look through your closet. Take a close look, pick up each item and think about how you can combine it in a new way. No ideas? Invite your friends over and create new styles together!” Smend recommends creating your own look book to keep track of all the options.
3. Nachhaltige Mode juckt und ist nicht schön zu tragen
Does this prejudice make us think of grandma’s hand-knitted things? Caught.
Materials that are super-sustainable and don’t scratch much are llama and alpaca wool. Those who don’t like wool can rejoice: “Every form of material is also available in sustainable. Wool was not reinvented for the sustainable fashion trend. But it’s brilliant when it doesn’t come from factory farming. There’s great undyed wool – or gorgeous colours.”
Fabrics like viscose or Tencel and others not only feel pleasant on the skin – they are partly made in Austria and do not have long transport routes behind them.
point for the carbon footprint.
4. Slow and Fair Fashion’s Sizes are limited
Mirjam Smend nods – she knows the problem. “Here, unfortunately, the size chart is not yet as big as it should be, in all directions.” She names Chlench from Stuttgart (“From Plus-Size Woman to Plus-Size Woman) and Valle o Valle from Vienna as pioneers. “Sustainability has to think about all target groups. Diversity is also an issue here.”
However, sizes outside those between 34 and 42 are also more difficult to produce, says the Munich-based designer. “You can’t just scale it up and use a little more fabric. Completely different techniques are needed in design and tailoring. In any case, something has to change quickly.
5. There are no Shops for Sustainable Fashion where I live
While a good selection in the big cities is no longer a problem, sustainable shopping in smaller cities is more difficult. But there are great online shops – even if it is more sustainable to walk into a real store and buy live. But Mirjam Smend also advocates nonchalance here: “70 per cent is the new perfect,” she says and laughs.
Images: © Greenstyle