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Südbahnhotel Semmering: Behind the Scenes

Das Südbahnhotel am Semmering ist eine Hotel-Legende, vielfach festgehalten in der Weltliteratur. Bis 2025 soll es nun renoviert werden.

It is rather rare that we report about closed hotels. But the Südbahnhotel at Semmering/Lower Austria is an exception. After all, the legendary Grand Hotel is an icon that history, art and literature have memorialized. Now you can take part in a guided tour of the hotel.

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Glamour of a long gone Era

In 1976 the doors of the house closed completely – at least for the hotel business. At that time, the Südbahnhotel could already look back on a long history. Its planning began as early as 1880 and it took only 14 months to complete, welcoming its first guests in 1882. Wilhelm von Flattich was responsible for the distinctive architecture.

Südbahnhotel, historische Aufnahme
FOTO: FORTEPAN / Schoch Frigyes, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The approximately 60 rooms, gaming, smoking and ladies’ salons, as well as the restaurant and bathing facilities, were soon populated by members of the highest Viennese circles. They came directly from the capital on the newly built Southern Railway (“Südbahn”) to enjoy the healthy air at Semmering. Even Empress Elisabeth indulged in what was euphemistically called a “couch cure” here, lounging around on a lounger in the sun. Soon, men from high finance and their families also became part of the audience.

Südbahnhotel
FOTO:FORTEPAN / Csontos Péter, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Insta-Hotspot without Insta

Around 1903, construction was largely completed. The building with its iconic central tower had long since become a Semmering landmark. The rooms were flooded with light and quite spacious. They were furnished by nearby imperial and royal suppliers with custom-made furniture. Court suppliers with custom-made furniture, inlays, mirrored tables, parquet flooring and fine carpets, each room was given its own individual character. Even the bathrooms were quite luxurious.

Semmering Südbahnhotel
Hans Bezard, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

However, its most important attribute was not the luxury that the hotel offered its guests. It was its guests themselves. Attracted by the aristocracy, the chic also soon arrived. From then on, the Südbahnhotel served not only for relaxation. It was also used for self-promotion. The showcase of vanity was orchestrated by hotel director Seibt and his three-legged dog. Amusement was always provided.

Downward Spiral

With the increasing popularity came numerous additions. The Südbahnhotel soon had a library, several halls, a beer hall and a cinema. The kitchen, 12 meters high, already had a ventilation system. Parks including a golf course, which in winter were transformed into ski meadows, natural toboggan, bobsleigh and skeleton runs, as well as ice skating rinks, made Semmering a popular destination for winter excursions as well.

Rezeption Südbahnhotel
© The Chill Report

The indoor swimming pool followed in 1932. It was designed by Emil Hoppe and Otto Schönthal. No wonder that greats such as Oskar Kokoschka, Alma Mahler-Werfel, Aolf Loos, Koloman Moser and Gerhart Hauptmann soon joined the ranks of illustrious guests. The steady decline of the Südbahnhotel began with the annexation of Austria to the German Reich. At first, of course, the well-heeled Jewish guests stayed away. Then the German Wehrmacht used it as a command post during the war.

Südbahnhotel
© The Chill Report

Goodbye, Semmering

The war took its toll. Although operations were resumed, the Südbahnhotel was no longer a success. One reason for this was that Semmering had lost its importance as a vacation destination. Initially, the first hotel building became a condominium complex, and the “Waldhof” annex became apartments. In 1976, the hotel doors closed forever.

Südnahnhotel

From 1994 to 2021, the building was owned by a rehabilitation clinic – but it never opened. Only the Reichenau Festival successfully used the hotel for its summer festival from 2000 to 2010. From 2017 to 2021, the Kultur.Sommer.Semmering took place in the former hotel premises. Since 2021, the Südbahnhotel has now been owned by the Christian Zeller Private Foundation. It is now to be revitalized. And soon resume operation as a hotel.

Behind the Scenes

Interested people now have the opportunity to experience the splendor of times past as part of a guided tour. There are three different tours to choose from. “Splendor of times past” lasts about 60 minutes and costs € 20,- per person. During this time, participants learn interesting facts about the architecture, the guests and the exclusive ambience of the former Grand Hotel am Semmering.

Südbahnhotel
© The Chill Report

“Scandals and Sensations at Semmering” has the dazzling personalities from art, money and high nobility as its theme. This tour lasts 90 minutes and costs € 25,- per person. “Dangerous Liaisons at Semmering” has alliances and tête-à-têtes as its theme; this tour also lasts 90 minutes and costs € 25 per person. They can all be booked here.

Südbahnhotel Guided Tours Experiences

We treated ourselves to the guided tour on the theme of the splendor of times past. The time passed so incredibly fast, especially because our guide designed the hour with a lot of humor. Part of the tour included a visit to the indoor pool, a room wing and some state rooms. You marveled at parts of the original furnishings and almost felt as if you were part of the hotel’s fascinating history.

Fassade Südbahnhotel
© The Chill Report

We were there in January, so it was quite good that we were dressed warmly. Of course, there is no heating. You can take as many photos as you like – and of course ask endless questions. If you let yourself fall behind the group a little bit, you get that “Shining” feeling. Then you shouldn’t look too closely at the hedges in the garden … A must: Go to the bathroom on the ground floor – you’ll be amazed. A little tip: The area is perfect for a (winter) hike to the “Zwanzig-Schilling-Blick”.

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